Adorned in colourful beadwork, Nokwethemba Vilakazi stands out at first glance. Not because she’s differently-abled, but because of her traditional African jewellery. Historically, people used beadwork in Zulu ceremonies and to express their feelings, identity and marital status. But Vilakazi found a way to immortalise the art form by modernising it. With her company IndlovuKazi Beads, she specialises in contemporary African embroidery. “I’m transforming Zulu beadwork to preserve it for future generations,” Vilakazi says.
Hailing from Nkandla, a rural town nestled in KwaZulu-Natal, Vilakazi recalls starting school late because there weren’t any educational facilities in her community that catered to people in wheelchairs. She then decided to pick up beading equipment to pass time, and soon began mastering the technique and its stylised patterns. When Vilakazi got to university, she established her signature approach, making the jewellery accessible to everyone. “People didn’t understand what I was doing,” she explains. “They thought I was diluting the culture.” Vilakazi carefully decorates everyday accessories such as hats, watches, and high heels. “Wearing traditional beadwork in a modern way doesn’t make it any less special,” she says.
Through beadwork, Vilakazi is retaining her Zulu customs. Her designs not only allow people to showcase heritage in style, but are also creating a future where it can flourish. “I think it is important to update our traditions,” Vilakazi says. “We are influenced by different cultures and if they also evolve with time, it will be easy for the younger generation to understand and also participate.”
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