He snips off a dried palm leaf and stitches it onto the length of hessian. Gift Kgosierileng calls himself a fashion artist – and it’s the only title befitting of him. Each of his creations is reminiscent of African garments pre-dating colonisation, posing a bold contradiction to the styles that dominate local catwalks.
“It’s evident that as a country, we’re becoming westernised and losing touch with our African roots,” he says. But with clothing, Kgosierileng is crafting critical questions about our identity. “What do we tell our grandkids? Are we really African people?” he asks. “I am Khoisan Tswana mixed and my work is very rooted in that identity.”
Though Kgosierileng studied fashion design, he found his calling in breaking the rules. “I don’t believe in fashion trends,” he says. “I don’t believe that people are supposed to tell you what to wear.” Instead, Kgosierileng builds inspiration from his late mother’s expressive nature, as well as his connection to his heritage. In 2014, he launched his brand, No Modern Slave by Kgosi. Designing from gut feeling, he collaborates with clients and incorporates natural elements like shells, feathers, leather, and rope. Each of his pieces transcend cultural differences and invoke pride in the earth.
Kgosierileng also participated in Project Runway South Africa, where he made an impact on viewers across the nation. Through his art, he’s encouraging South Africans to rise up, recognise their history, and express themselves despite the pressure to succumb to global influences. “Tell your own story,” Kgosierileng asserts.
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