Don’t be fooled. The Karoo may be full of sheep, but it boasts some of the best stargazing spots in the country. Leave the city where the sky is drowned out and neighbours don’t know each other’s names. Head for Sutherland instead, the small, friendly town with an enormous telescope – in fact, one of the biggest in the world.
GO
Brave the desolate Karoo landscape and journey along the gravel Ouberg Pass, which offers unparalleled views of the valley below. Turn onto the R354, where you’ll find Sutherland.
SEE
Established in the 1850s by the region’s sheep farmers, the town has quietly grown to about 3 000 residents and produced notable figures. At the Louw House Museum you’ll discover the birthplace of brothers NP van Wyk Louw and WEG Louw, renowned Afrikaans-language poets and scholars. To delve into local history, stop by the Dutch Reformed Church, recognised as a national monument. Built in the late 1800s, its consecration was delayed after it was taken over by British troops during the Second Anglo-Boer War. Graffiti left by soldiers can still be seen on the walls.
DO
Visit Cluster d’Hote to devour a delectable lamb shank, a delicacy of the Karoo. While the cuisine is an experience on its own, Sutherland is famed for its stargazing. A short drive from town is the South African Astronomical Observatory, perfectly positioned to peer into the universe through unpolluted skies. The Southern African Large Telescope, or SALT, secures this area’s prime reputation. It’s the largest of its kind in the southern hemisphere and can detect light a billion times too faint for the naked eye. Day and night tours must be booked in advance.
Even with the vision to explore far-away galaxies, this tight-knit community has their feet firmly on the ground. Any visitor is welcome here – so long as you’re prepared to leave starry-eyed and yearning to return.
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