Beach front

Paternoster: the seaside village harbouring grit and glamour

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South Africa

For us modern-day landlubbers, it's difficult to imagine the treacherous voyages sailors once took. But their relief must have been immense when they saw the coastal village of Paternoster. Enshrined in maritime lore, its name comes from the prayers of Portuguese sailors. In Latin, Paternoster means “Our Father” – and these words were on the lips of seamen crossing the ocean, facing shipwreck or fortune. 

 

GO 

Today, you can embark on a trip here with much less risk of scurvy. Escape to this West Coast fishing village two hours from Cape Town, and immerse yourself in an oasis from the city. 

SEE

Paternoster is world-famous for its lobster, and at one point fishermen canned and exported them to Paris. Colourful boats bring in the day’s catch, and their bounty is distributed to local families, restaurants, and fisheries. 

The Paternoster Hotel houses a unique history. Its pub once served as a prison, but these days the Panty Bar is known for its unusual decor. Pairs of underwear stream from the ceiling in what began as the hotelier’s collection of ‘honeymoon panties’. 

A five-kilometre drive from the village leads to the Cape Columbine Lighthouse, one of the last to be manually operated. Climb your way to the top and marvel at the unparalleled view. This lighthouse is usually the first to be seen by ships coming in from Europe, a landmark signalling that their journey is nearing its end. 

DO 

Stay in rustic accommodation with Sea Shack or Die Opstal Cottages along the coastline. These pristine beaches are made for long strolls, bird-watching, and spotting whales and dolphins. 

Learn to make quirky ceramic art at Stone Fish Studio, where weekend sculpture courses are run with out-of-town visitors in mind.

Indulge in fresh seafood and fine dining at Wolfgat, the 2019 Restaurant of the Year award winner. This 20-seater eatery comprises local staff with no formal training, and the head chef forages from the surrounding area to plate up truly homegrown meals. For a more casual meal, head to The Noisy Oyster

In this sleepy haven layered with history and authenticity, sit back, relax, and unwind.

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