It’s eerily calm. A gust of wind blows through the dusty streets. Skeletal trees line the roads. Yet in this quaint hamlet in the eastern Free State, flowers still bloom during the dry winter. Rosendal means ‘valley of roses’ after all. Although it appears a little rough around the edges, the small town’s unexpected whimsy is a welcome detour from urban life.
Rosendal originally began as an agricultural settlement. Today, it has grown into a modest village that attracts citydwellers, retirees, and a surprising number of artists. The few permanent residents who live here are gainfully occupied with farming, weaving, or running the cafés and shops that dot the streets.
The central point of the locale is the NG Kerk. Multiple quirky establishments surround the church. At Meerkatkolonie Gallery on Hertzog Street, admire the works of artists Michèle Nigrini and Dahla Hulme who gain inspiration from the area. Just down the road, Benjamin’s serves their famous waffles. Nostalgia sets in at Turksvy Trading on Kriek Street. The store is filled to the brim with memorabilia, from pinball machines to shelves of vintage tins. Large jars of sweets line the counter, reminiscent of the corner shops of yesteryear.
Although parts of Rosendal are antiquated, scattered with rusty windmills and old farmhouses, its natural beauty is timeless. Set beneath the Witteberg mountains, the weather fluctuates from intense thunderstorms in summer to snowfall in winter. But throughout the year, visitors and locals alike can meander along paths by foot or bicycle. The eight-kilometre Mosamane trail reveals incredible rock formations. Cherry blossoms are also a prominent feature of the area, flowering in all their splendour at Nebo Mountain Lodge.
Despite being a three-hour drive from Johannesburg, Rosendal isn’t at the top of every traveller’s list. The town remains unswayed by tourism. But because of this, you’ll discover a South African dorpie that retains all of its eccentric, yet humble personality.
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