Much of the Wild Coast lies off the beaten track. But to travel from Kei Mouth to Kentani is to lose the track completely. Up until today, this stretch of the Eastern Cape has remained largely unexplored by travellers. It’s easy to see why. In order to get from one town to the other, you have to cross the Great Kei River – on a pontoon. This rare form of transport involves steering your car onto a massive float and coasting along the water. Who needs a road?
The trek begins in the surprisingly busy small town of Kei Mouth. Here, life revolves around the estuary. Fishermen head out for the catch of the day, sometimes taking their boats into the ocean for a bout of deep sea angling. Fish eagles perch in trees along the river banks, while kingfishers flit above the water’s surface.
For those unfamiliar with the area, there are numerous ways to discover its scenery. Canter across the beach along horse riding trails, or explore the nearby forests. From the main road to Signal Hill, a short walk offers multiple viewing points overlooking the ocean. Kei Mouth also serves as the start of the four-day Strandloper Trail. Novel oddities fill the rest of the town. The Hazel Jefferies Shell Museum displays a vast collection of ocean treasures. Five minutes away, a 1960s jet plane marks the entrance to the Motorcycle Museum at Morganville Farm. Hundreds of bikes, old helicopters, and even double-decker buses are on exhibit. This is just one side of the Great Kei.
The only bridge to cross over is 70 kilometres away, requiring an hours-long trip. For a much quicker journey, there’s the pontoon ferry which lets people, cars, and even the occasional horse and cow to traverse the sweeping channel with ease. The vessel operates every day of the year and can fit two motor vehicles at a time. Cruising across the river takes five minutes, allowing passengers to appreciate the breeze coming off the water.
On the other side, the R349 meanders through an unspoilt rural region. The gravel road curves past spatterings of rondavels, roaming cows, and goats. After an hour’s drive, the town of Kentani comes into view. The area has a population of less than 2 000, but is a stronghold of Xhosa culture.
The journey from Kei Mouth to Kentani is quintessential Eastern Cape. Between mighty rivers and swaths of land, forget the conventional route. To experience this area in all its richness, climb aboard a pontoon.
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