Pioneering an Indo-African style to represent South Africa’s cultural diversity

From native American feathered headdresses to Basotho blankets, clothing has always been a significant marker of identity. But for Verushka Pather, Indo-African garments were hard to come by. “While South Africa boasts a unique culture of heritage and clothing, I could just never find the perfect fabric that represents who I am,” she explains. Pather is of Indian origin, descending from enslaved communities who were brought to South Africa in the 1800s by British colonialists. There are now over a million individuals in the country who identify as Indian, the majority of whom reside in the city of Durban. Having lived here for over 150 years alongside the local Zulu community, they’ve formed a unique culture of their own. Yet this has not been reflected in traditional attire. Taking matters into her own hands, Pather is now combining fabrics woven from her ancestral land with patterns signifying her African birthplace.

Pather developed a love for fashion while learning the classical dance of Bharatanatyam in India. Back in South Africa, she now collaborates with a diversity of seamstresses, weavers and beaders. Together, they blend raw Indian silks and Rajasthani jewels with weaves of shweshwe and traditional Zulu beadwork – the patterns and colours of which have historically been used to express feelings and identity. The result is Khanya Designs, a bespoke, cross-cultural alternative that embraces modern and traditional dress wear. “When I say Indo-African, it's the merging of two magnanimous countries,” Pather says.

Her designs are worn by artists trained in traditional Indian dance, but made with the everyday South African woman in mind. With the garments, Pather is creating visibility for people of Indo-African descent, and demonstrating the significance of their heritage and history in the country. She derived ‘Khanya’ from the Zulu word khanyisa, meaning ‘shining light’, and the city of Kanyakumari at the southern tip of India to convey ‘let your soul shine’. Her brand is rooted in her individuality, but it also represents the unity in diversity that’s present in South Africa. When Pather intertwines her two worlds, she’s also emphasising her pride. “Now that I have clothes that finally has its authentic voice, I am home,” she says.